Your skin provides your body’s first layer of protection against the elements. Even though we don’t think of it in this way, it is the biggest organ of the body and often neglected. In order for it to function as it should, you need to keep it healthy and part of that means that you need adequate hydration – but each person’s skin is unique. So, how do you know when you need a moisturizer and how do you choose the right one?
Why would you need moisturizer?
Skin that is healthy and hydrated provides better protection. When your skin is adequately hydrated, wounds heal faster and your skin looks younger.
The skin is comprised of three layers:
- Epidermis – the outer layer is composed of dead cells which continuously slough off
- Dermis – the middle layer contains live cells that begin as young, healthy and plump cells, aging as they rise towards the epidermis
- Hypodermis – the deepest layer is where skin cells originate. As new cells are created, dead cells on the epidermis will be worn away
It normally takes 4 to 6 weeks for skin to “turn over.” This is the amount of time that it takes for a brand new skin cell, produced in the hypodermis, to rise all the way to the top of the epidermis to be sloughed off. No amount of moisturizer will revive the cells of the epidermis but if they are routinely removed through exfoliation, the younger, still living, cells of the dermis will shine through.
When a moisturizer is needed, it should be one that provides good penetration through the outer layer of skin (epidermis) into the dermis to keep these cells healthy and plump. In addition to routine cleansing, most people will benefit from daily application of an appropriate moisturizer but not everyone In some cases, plastic surgeons and dermatologists may perform procedures or utilize skin preparations containing retinoic acid (Retin A) to encourage the skin to turn over more frequently.
What kind of moisturizer is right?
Many skin products claim to be “all-in-one” but, in general, the fewer ingredients your moisturizer has, the better off you will be. More ingredients mean a greater chance of irritation due to the presence of additional allergens. If you need it, you can apply a moisturizer underneath your makeup in the morning but don’t go for the all-in-one formula. Choose the right moisturizer and the right makeup, separately.
Remember too, more expensive does not mean better. You should not assume that more expensive creams, lotions or “serums” will automatically be of higher quality. With many of these products, you are paying for a fancy jar or expensive department store marketing.
If you are not in need of a prescription-level product, look for ingredients that are not petroleum based, particularly avoid anything with paraffin, dimethicone or petrolatum. Moisturizers containing peptides and ceramides work well for many people, while others can benefit from products that contain lactic acid, hydroxyl acids or urea.
How much moisturizer is enough?
If you have naturally dry skin, or if you live in a particularly dry environment, it may require more moisturizer. This doesn’t however, necessarily mean you should use a heavier cream or that you should apply it frequently. Contrary to some beliefs, moisturizing products don’t always cause acne and the right products, applied on the right skin type, may actually help. When the skin is properly hydrated, it is clear and healthy.
If your skin is naturally “oily” or you live in a humid environment, you won’t need as much moisturizer. In fact, some people do not need to use it more than occasionally. Though they aren’t always directly related to acne – using too much product or one with the wrong ingredients can make the skin look oily and may clog the pores.
Your skin needs to be properly hydrated but think of your moisturizer as “pure is better” and “less is more.” It may be not be best to have a makeup that contains both moisturizer and sunscreen or any other combination product as you may not need all components, all of the time. If you are in doubt, your plastic surgeon or dermatologist will be able to give specific recommendations about the right kind of moisturizer you need.
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